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Photo © Mirella
Photo © Mirella

Colle Val d'Elsa

Art and architectural treasures in the city of crystal

Colle di Val d'Elsa, locally known simply as Colle, stands on the oldest part of a hill a few miles from San Gimignano and Monteriggioni. Straddling the ancient Via Francigena, it has always been a thoroughfare for pilgrims and travellers, who would stop here to rest beneath its distinctive tower-houses. These constructions rise up right across the town: no longer inhabited, they nevertheless contribute to the unique urban profile. One of these towers is famous for having been home to the artist Arnolfo di Cambio, sculptor, architect and student of the influential Nicola Pisano.

What to see in Colle Val d’Elsa

Colle Val d’Elsa has been the capital of crystal for centuries, so much so that it has been nicknamed the Bohemia of Italy. Wine glasses, drinking glasses and plates are formed through a mix of craftsmanship and technique that can still be observed today, seeing the city produce almost all of this special glass in Italy. To learn the tricks and contemplate the art of glassblowing, delve into the Crystal Museum or attend demonstrations held in artisan workshops or check out the dedicated events in the historic center.

The oldest part of Colle, known as Colle Alta, is also the part that offers visitors atmospheres charged with history and incredible views. Strolling through the medieval streets, for example, you’ll come across precious such as that of the Civic Museum and Museum of Sacred Art or the Ranuccio Bianchi Bandinelli Archeological Museum, where archaeology does the talking. In the monumental complex of the women’s monastery of the same name is the San Pietro Museum, founded in the 17ᵗʰ century by Pietro Usimbardi and designed by Giorgio Vasari the Younger, divided into five sections tracing the history of the city.
For those who wish to stretch their gaze, head to the Baluardo, a fortification from where you can take in the panorama of the entire valley.

On a small hill opposite the castle stand the Church and Convent of San Francesco, built in the 13ᵗʰ century on the site where the first followers of the saint from Assisi gathered for communal prayers.

In Colle, history and modernity merge along the variant of Stage 32 of the Via Francigena, where contemporary art dialogues with the past.
The route begins near the Porta Nuova with Tadashi Kawamata’s wooden work symbolizing the passing of time, then continues to the Bastione di Sapia, where Ilya Kabakov’s marble column, The Weakening Voice, pierces the landscape.
The route then leads to the lift Il Baluardo, designed by Jean Nouvel and housing Red Girl by Kiki Smith.
Near the Crystal Museum, the Façade of the Bellini Chorus by Alberto Garutti introduces a short detour to Piazza Arnolfo—redeveloped thanks to works entrusted to Jean Nouvel—where the Spazio Michelucci, the Scalo Merci Don Gnocchi and the Crystal Shutter by Alessandra Tesi are located.
Returning to the main route, you’ll reach the Teatro del Popolo, where Marco Magni’s Column of Light illuminates the foyer with reflections that exalt the art of glass.

Colle Val d’Elsa has been the capital of crystal for centuries, so much so that it has been nicknamed the Bohemia of Italy. Wine glasses, drinking glasses and plates are formed through a mix of craftsmanship and technique that can still be observed today, seeing the city produce almost all of this special glass in Italy. To learn the tricks and contemplate the art of glassblowing, delve into the Crystal Museum or attend demonstrations held in artisan workshops or check out the dedicated events in the historic center.

The oldest part of Colle, known as Colle Alta, is also the part that offers visitors atmospheres charged with history and incredible views. Strolling through the medieval streets, for example, you’ll come across precious such as that of the Civic Museum and Museum of Sacred Art or the Ranuccio Bianchi Bandinelli Archeological Museum, where archaeology does the talking. In the monumental complex of the women’s monastery of the same name is the San Pietro Museum, founded in the 17ᵗʰ century by Pietro Usimbardi and designed by Giorgio Vasari the Younger, divided into five sections tracing the history of the city.
For those who wish to stretch their gaze, head to the Baluardo, a fortification from where you can take in the panorama of the entire valley.

On a small hill opposite the castle stand the Church and Convent of San Francesco, built in the 13ᵗʰ century on the site where the first followers of the saint from Assisi gathered for communal prayers.

In Colle, history and modernity merge along the variant of Stage 32 of the Via Francigena, where contemporary art dialogues with the past.
The route begins near the Porta Nuova with Tadashi Kawamata’s wooden work symbolizing the passing of time, then continues to the Bastione di Sapia, where Ilya Kabakov’s marble column, The Weakening Voice, pierces the landscape.
The route then leads to the lift Il Baluardo, designed by Jean Nouvel and housing Red Girl by Kiki Smith.
Near the Crystal Museum, the Façade of the Bellini Chorus by Alberto Garutti introduces a short detour to Piazza Arnolfo—redeveloped thanks to works entrusted to Jean Nouvel—where the Spazio Michelucci, the Scalo Merci Don Gnocchi and the Crystal Shutter by Alessandra Tesi are located.
Returning to the main route, you’ll reach the Teatro del Popolo, where Marco Magni’s Column of Light illuminates the foyer with reflections that exalt the art of glass.

Nearby

On the other side of the town you find the Sentierelsa: a 4km-long route that runs alongside the river Elsa, which is famed for its unusual turquoise colour. The path, which starts at San Marziale and finishes at Ponte di Spugna, is dotted with bridges, boardwalks and steps, and places with facilities and rest areas. One of the highlights of the walk is the Diborrato, a waterfall some 15 metres high, which plunges into a deep blue lake.

Thanks to the springs that feed the river Elsa, the water level does not vary greatly over the course of the year. This makes it the ideal place for riversports like soft rafting.

If walking is more your thing, though, you can walk section 32 of the Via Francigena to reach San Gimignano or, in the other direction, the village of Monteriggioni. Cycling enthusiasts can unearth the beauty of the gentle Tuscan hills by following any of the numerous tracks that connect the crystal city with the other hilltowns of the Val d'Elsa, like this cycle route from Colle to San Gimignano.

On the other side of the town you find the Sentierelsa: a 4km-long route that runs alongside the river Elsa, which is famed for its unusual turquoise colour. The path, which starts at San Marziale and finishes at Ponte di Spugna, is dotted with bridges, boardwalks and steps, and places with facilities and rest areas. One of the highlights of the walk is the Diborrato, a waterfall some 15 metres high, which plunges into a deep blue lake.

Thanks to the springs that feed the river Elsa, the water level does not vary greatly over the course of the year. This makes it the ideal place for riversports like soft rafting.

If walking is more your thing, though, you can walk section 32 of the Via Francigena to reach San Gimignano or, in the other direction, the village of Monteriggioni. Cycling enthusiasts can unearth the beauty of the gentle Tuscan hills by following any of the numerous tracks that connect the crystal city with the other hilltowns of the Val d'Elsa, like this cycle route from Colle to San Gimignano.

Events

Colle celebrates its patron saint San Marziale on the first of July, with music, markets, food stalls and traditional fireworks. The Fiera della Miseria occupies Piazza Santa Caterina every weekend in June: this culinary festival presents the flavours of old Tuscan poor cuisine. Dishes served up include ribollita, charcuterie, fagioli all'uccelletto and homemade sweets and cakes.

On the fourth Saturday of every month, the Mercatale comes to Piazza Arnolfo di Cambio. This producers' market is full of stalls with craft objects and locally produced foods.

Colle celebrates its patron saint San Marziale on the first of July, with music, markets, food stalls and traditional fireworks. The Fiera della Miseria occupies Piazza Santa Caterina every weekend in June: this culinary festival presents the flavours of old Tuscan poor cuisine. Dishes served up include ribollita, charcuterie, fagioli all'uccelletto and homemade sweets and cakes.

On the fourth Saturday of every month, the Mercatale comes to Piazza Arnolfo di Cambio. This producers' market is full of stalls with craft objects and locally produced foods.

Typical Dishes and Produce

The Colle di Val d'Elsa area produces some excellent sheep milk cheese, from Pecorino Toscano DOP to pecorino seasoned in walnut leaves or with truffles.

The area is also known for its Cinta Senese DOP and other cold cuts, such as Finocchiona IGP, Prosciutto Toscano DOP, rigatino and soprassata. The most notable local wine is Chianti Colli Senesi, a young red that goes perfectly with charcuterie, bread soups, grilled and roasted pork and lightly seasoned cheeses.

The Colle di Val d'Elsa area produces some excellent sheep milk cheese, from Pecorino Toscano DOP to pecorino seasoned in walnut leaves or with truffles.

The area is also known for its Cinta Senese DOP and other cold cuts, such as Finocchiona IGP, Prosciutto Toscano DOP, rigatino and soprassata. The most notable local wine is Chianti Colli Senesi, a young red that goes perfectly with charcuterie, bread soups, grilled and roasted pork and lightly seasoned cheeses.

What’s nearby?

Must-see places, stage-by-stage routes, events and tips for your trip

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