Ponte della valle oscura, seen from above - Credit: Alessio Grazi
At least three Roman roads converge in the Lunigiana: the one arriving from Turin, today known as via degli Abati, the via Francigena (also known as via di Monte Bardone, the road that passed through the Cisa, Bardone coming from the Lombardic language) and via di Parma, once called via Lombarda della Scala. The most frequented stretch running from the Passo della Cisa to Pontremoli – because the walk amongst the valleys and mountains is suitable for everyone – is the one that passes through Gravagna, turning toward Montelungo, before arriving in Cavezzana d’Antena (once famous for the presence of therapeutic waters). From here, you continue down towards Previdé, where there was a “caminata”, that is, a tower-chimney, from where there surrounding territory could be observed (the etymology of Previdé actually means “see first”: from here, the arrival of enemies could be communicated with smoke signals, quickly alerting the whole valley. After Previdé, continue towards Groppodalosio (lodging group, ridge, or place of grottos: indeed, there are a few). It’s not a long stretch, ancient peoples didn’t tend to walk much, so from Groppodalosio, head down to Ponte della Valle Oscura – a beautiful Romanesque bridge: just think, over the centuries the river has dragged everything else away, but the bridge still stands – and you’ll arrive shortly in Casalina, where the route joins up with the Lombardic road in the Passo di Girone. These two roads were guarded to the right of the River Magra from the watch point in Previdé and to the left from Casalina, where today there is the main church and where the Oratory of San Matteo was established, as this was the safest area. There also used to be a mill here because those living in the communities needed everything, and with a mill they could grind chestnuts, providing food to the people of these mountains for centuries.
