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The tunnel villages of Lunigiana
Photo © Lunigiana World
Photo © Lunigiana World

The tunnel villages of Lunigiana

A journey through time along 7 stone villages

Lunigiana
by  Lunigiana

Perhaps not everyone knows that Lunigiana is also characterized by particular villages where a good part of the road network is now covered by stone tunnels that offer visitors a network of long and evocative walkways.

From a structural point of view, compared to villages with open-air streets, tunnel villages have a more compact structure where the decorative element is rarely used and where streets and alleys are often characterized by cobblestones, arranged in a combination of flakes or stones.

These villages often still have a single main entrance today, usually in a full-arched tunnel with a barrel vault set among the houses, which leads to a small square or courtyard with a fountain used as a meeting place, parade ground or market. From here you access the main road which, following a linear path with entrances on other side streets, crosses the village in its entirety until reaching another entrance, to be considered secondary. However, there are no houses opening onto the streets, but spaces used as stables, warehouses, barns without windows or with small air vents.

The galleries are illuminated by architraved openings that also allow access to the elevated houses. From the courtyards, the houses are accessed via small stone stairs which end in landings or terraces.

Our journey begins in Pozzo, in the municipality of Mulazzo on the right side of the Magra river.  It's a small aristocratic village, developed around the middle of the 16th century after the legacy of Moroello Malaspina of Mulazzo to his sons, characterized by primitive door and window replaced with more modern ones, but always in stone and elaborated with coats of arms and decorations from the 17th-18th century. Another tunnel Village in the lands of Mulazzo is Castagnetoli, an ancient autonomous marquisate seat passed into the ownership of the Corsini marquises, who became masters of Giovagallo. Even today, two continuous compact parts can be seen: one in a northerly direction, which gravitates around the square of the marquis' palace, and another in a southerly direction which is divided into parallel roads, in a tunnel for most of its route and with few transversal connections.

Crossing the Magra and reaching the municipality of Filattiera, we discover Caprio di Sopra, a mixed village with more recent architectural and urban structures: here the streets are wider and the galleries are considerably long and high. There are architectural refinements, such as architraves, fountains, internal and external gardens, crossed buttressed and blind arches.

Moving south, we reach the Taverone Valley and the municipality of Comano. On the right of the stream, we see Cattognano, a village surrounded by greenery that preserves porticoes and barrel arches that are attached to the walls through, parts of medieval walls, wash houses and an imposing entrance door.

Going up the road we enter the municipality of Licciana Nardi with the village of Tavernelle that develpos along a single road overlooked by buildings mostly from the fifteenth century and characterized by portals and vaulted passages, galleries, windows and steps in sandstone. Going up further we reach the village of Taponecco, on the slopes of the Apennines, internally structured in a gallery and enriched by arches, vaults, characteristic pillars, flat frames and intersections of galleries. Finally, going up further, our journey ends in Apella, the birthplace of the hero of the Risorgimento to whom Licciana owes its name: Anacarsi Nardi. The village welcomes us with its tower, in a dominant position, and invites us to walk along a dense network of steep, paved streets, sometimes interrupted by corner intersections that remind us, step by step, of all the wonder of walking along stone villages, capturing with our gaze new details with centuries of history and, sometimes, raising our eyes to the sky to try to glimpse it between one tunnel and another.

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