Venture off the typical tourist hotspots in Tuscany and explore the mysterious and verdant area of Garfagnana
From North to South, Tuscany as a region is home to such a wonderful variety of landscapes. One of the most majestic and wild exists up north, is the valley of Garfagnana between the Apuan Alps and the Tosco-Emiliano Apennines, home to two stunning national parks.
This lush territory dubbed “the green island of Tuscany” or by one Italian writer the “Land of wolves and outlaws” is home to the Serchio river and lush verdant landscapes. It remains the perfect place for someone who doesn’t want veer too far from historical art cities such as formidable Lucca, but whom seeks to escape the crowds that fill up Tuscany’s most popular art cities. This is definitely the kind of destination for those who appreciate the outdoors: here you can explore caves, get lost in the mountains, indulge in the local cuisine, visit medieval towns and simply savor the local landscape.
Personally, Garfagnana remains a place where Nico and I go when we need to really breathe, a chance to escape city life and get lost in the charms of a bewitching, mysterious landscape that has served as a siren’s call for many over the centuries. A place that feels frankly stopped in time.
We would start in Castelnuovo di Garfagnana. The first mentions of this town’s very existence date back as far as the 8th century and due to its prime position near both the Serchio and the Turrite Secca rivers, it quickly developed into a market town during the 13th century. Make sure to visit the imposing Rocca Ariostesca, a 12th century castle dedicated to a poet and former inhabitant. Castelnuovo di Garfagnana is the main town in the area and the perfect place to base and there are a few interesting places you can see along the way.
The first is Borgo a Mozzano – home to uniquely curved medieval bridge, Ponte della Maddalena, that bears a truly devilish tale. According to legend, it is thought that Satan agreed to help build the bridge for the townspeople, and in return, he asked for the soul of the first person to cross the bridge, they cleverly sent a goat instead!
Another alternative (or addition depending on what time you choose to leave) is to visit the once resting place of Giovanni Pascoli, an emblematic figure of Italian literature and poetry in the late nineteenth century. Casa Museo Pascoli is situated on the Colle di Caprona and was Pascoli’s home from 1895 to 1912, the villa has been preserved with his old furnishings and most interesting his manuscripts and books.
Next up is your arrival at the village of Castiglione di Garfagnana, a striking medieval fortress that has remained intact over the centuries. In the village check out the fortress and the ancient churches of San Michele and San Pietro.
We would start in Castelnuovo di Garfagnana. The first mentions of this town’s very existence date back as far as the 8th century and due to its prime position near both the Serchio and the Turrite Secca rivers, it quickly developed into a market town during the 13th century. Make sure to visit the imposing Rocca Ariostesca, a 12th century castle dedicated to a poet and former inhabitant. Castelnuovo di Garfagnana is the main town in the area and the perfect place to base and there are a few interesting places you can see along the way.
The first is Borgo a Mozzano – home to uniquely curved medieval bridge, Ponte della Maddalena, that bears a truly devilish tale. According to legend, it is thought that Satan agreed to help build the bridge for the townspeople, and in return, he asked for the soul of the first person to cross the bridge, they cleverly sent a goat instead!
Another alternative (or addition depending on what time you choose to leave) is to visit the once resting place of Giovanni Pascoli, an emblematic figure of Italian literature and poetry in the late nineteenth century. Casa Museo Pascoli is situated on the Colle di Caprona and was Pascoli’s home from 1895 to 1912, the villa has been preserved with his old furnishings and most interesting his manuscripts and books.
Next up is your arrival at the village of Castiglione di Garfagnana, a striking medieval fortress that has remained intact over the centuries. In the village check out the fortress and the ancient churches of San Michele and San Pietro.
One unique activity that you can do in Garfagnana is explore the Grotta del Vento or “Windy Cave” named for the strong air currents that flow through it. Home to intricate ancient limestone rock formations, stalactites and stalagmites, it is located in the middle of the Apuan Alps natural park underneath the Pania Secca. You can choose between three different tours ranging from one hour until three (with various levels of difficulty) and all are well lit with railings. For those feeling even more adventurous there are two additional private tours that include rope descents and spotlights.
Undoubtedly the small village of Barga likely remains one of the most well-known and popular destinations in the area, a seasoned regular on the list of the most beautiful villages in Italy and a citadel dating back to the 10th century. It’s not hard to see why it is so beloved; the colorful houses and maze of narrow, cobblestones alleyways will charm any visitor upon arrival, but it is the local vibe and pleasant atmosphere that make you want to linger a little longer. One of the main attractions you definitely don’t want to miss is the Teatro dei Differenti (literally translated "Theater of the Deviants"), the heart and soul of the town’s theater scene.
To park, we would head to piazzale del Fosso and head into the city through Porta Reale before walking along the main drag of Via del Pretorio. You can first stop at the 15th century Conservatory of Santa Elisabetta and continue to the Romanesque Cathedral of San Cristoforo for a great view of the surrounding countryside and town below. Don’t miss a peek inside at the wooden statue of St. Christopher, the town’s patron saint. Palazzo Pretorio is home to a civic museum for the territory where you can explore medieval and Renaissance art and a fascinating section dedicated to the paleontology around the Serchio Valley. For Andrea della Robbia fans, you can see his work inside the Church of San Francesco.
Make time to sample Barga’s local cuisine, the trota (trout) is a local specialty often fried or served in a spicy tomato sauce, and you’ll find other delights from Garfagnana – think rich honey, everything with chestnuts, local mushrooms in local eateries in town. Keep in mind that every July there is a popular fish & chips festival (la Sagra del Pesce e Patate) a testament to the town’s strong Scottish connection and in mid-August, there is a popular Jazz festival.
One unique activity that you can do in Garfagnana is explore the Grotta del Vento or “Windy Cave” named for the strong air currents that flow through it. Home to intricate ancient limestone rock formations, stalactites and stalagmites, it is located in the middle of the Apuan Alps natural park underneath the Pania Secca. You can choose between three different tours ranging from one hour until three (with various levels of difficulty) and all are well lit with railings. For those feeling even more adventurous there are two additional private tours that include rope descents and spotlights.
Undoubtedly the small village of Barga likely remains one of the most well-known and popular destinations in the area, a seasoned regular on the list of the most beautiful villages in Italy and a citadel dating back to the 10th century. It’s not hard to see why it is so beloved; the colorful houses and maze of narrow, cobblestones alleyways will charm any visitor upon arrival, but it is the local vibe and pleasant atmosphere that make you want to linger a little longer. One of the main attractions you definitely don’t want to miss is the Teatro dei Differenti (literally translated "Theater of the Deviants"), the heart and soul of the town’s theater scene.
To park, we would head to piazzale del Fosso and head into the city through Porta Reale before walking along the main drag of Via del Pretorio. You can first stop at the 15th century Conservatory of Santa Elisabetta and continue to the Romanesque Cathedral of San Cristoforo for a great view of the surrounding countryside and town below. Don’t miss a peek inside at the wooden statue of St. Christopher, the town’s patron saint. Palazzo Pretorio is home to a civic museum for the territory where you can explore medieval and Renaissance art and a fascinating section dedicated to the paleontology around the Serchio Valley. For Andrea della Robbia fans, you can see his work inside the Church of San Francesco.
Make time to sample Barga’s local cuisine, the trota (trout) is a local specialty often fried or served in a spicy tomato sauce, and you’ll find other delights from Garfagnana – think rich honey, everything with chestnuts, local mushrooms in local eateries in town. Keep in mind that every July there is a popular fish & chips festival (la Sagra del Pesce e Patate) a testament to the town’s strong Scottish connection and in mid-August, there is a popular Jazz festival.
One of our most treasured stops is an ancient village and once a hot spot for pilgrims and travelers located in the municipality of Careggine on the way to Versilia on the banks of the Turrite Secca body of water. The waters originate from La Pollaccia spring and are rich in wild “fario” trout surrounded by a wooded area filled with chestnut trees. During the '50s the construction of a dam for hydroelectric power caused the village inhabitants to leave, luckily it was later restored though it remains a beautiful, almost ethereal ghost town. What can you do here? I consider it a prime place for photography and to hike among the paths around the lake; the perfect way to wind down a weekend in the Garfagnana and trust me, you’ll already be thinking about a return trip.
One of our most treasured stops is an ancient village and once a hot spot for pilgrims and travelers located in the municipality of Careggine on the way to Versilia on the banks of the Turrite Secca body of water. The waters originate from La Pollaccia spring and are rich in wild “fario” trout surrounded by a wooded area filled with chestnut trees. During the '50s the construction of a dam for hydroelectric power caused the village inhabitants to leave, luckily it was later restored though it remains a beautiful, almost ethereal ghost town. What can you do here? I consider it a prime place for photography and to hike among the paths around the lake; the perfect way to wind down a weekend in the Garfagnana and trust me, you’ll already be thinking about a return trip.