A vacation in the Pistoia Mountains, amid snow and charming villages
The Pistoia Mountains are a favorite destination for lovers of winter sports and the outdoors. Located on the southern slope of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, the area encompasses the municipalities of Marliana, San Marcello Piteglio, Sambuca Pistoiese and Abetone Cutigliano. For centuries, this area has been an important crossroads for pilgrimages, trade and communication.
Even the ancient Romans knew of this area, traversing the mountains along pathways and mule tracks. According to legend, the famous General Hannibal crossed the Apennines through these areas to enter Etruria. This would inspire the name of the Passo di Annibale—Hannibal Pass—that remains an important Apennine path and a favorite destination for high-altitude skiers to this day.
In the late 1700s, to improve connections between the slopes of the Apennines, the Strada Ximeniana was constructed, as a safe and fast artery connecting the Grand Duchy of Tuscany to the Duchy of Modena. The project, completed between 1766 and 1778, culminated with the inauguration of the Abetone Pass, destined to become a strategic point for communications. Even today, the two stone pyramids commemorating the works can be seen in Abetone’s town square.
Interestingly, during construction of the road, a massive fir tree was cut down—so large and majestic that it gave its name to the locality, namely Abetone, which translates to “big fir”.
With the opening of the new pass, the flow of trade and tourism increased significantly, bringing new vigor to the Pistoia Mountains. The growing popularity of skiing, which in the meantime had become a fashionable sport among aristocrats, helped establish Abetone as one of Central Italy’s leading ski resorts.
Today, with about 50 kilometers of slopes dedicated to alpine skiing, snowboarding and cross-country skiing, offering various degrees of difficulty, winter sports enthusiasts can find trails to suit everyone, from beginners to advanced skiers.
We have put together a four-day itinerary to explore not only the Abetone ski area but also the villages and towns of the Pistoia Mountains, each with its own unique history and traditions.
Original article by Elisa Gonfiantini
Starting from Pistoia, you can begin your journey of discovery of the Pistoia Mountains with an initial stop in Maresca, a small and ancient village located along the river of the same name in the municipality of San Marcello Piteglio. This location—ideal for those seeking relaxation and tranquility—offers pleasant walks thanks to its proximity to the Teso Forest, a centuries-old woods that is perfect for trekking, with routes suitable for everyone and especially for families.
A short distance from Maresca, past the village of Gavinana, is the Pian dei Termini Astronomical Observatory, a must-see for science and astronomy enthusiasts, from where it is possible to view the solar system. Thanks to the work of the Gruppo Astrofili Montagna Pistoiese (Pistoia Mountain Astronomers Group), the observatory hosts annual meetings and tours dedicated to popularizing the mysteries of the cosmos and stars, providing a fascinating and educational experience for young and old.
After the visit, return to the SP66 provincial road heading towards Abetone to reach Le Regine, the first ski area of Abetone, to hit the slopes. A chairlift—Seggiovia Le Regine—will take you up to the summit of the Selletta, located at the beginning of the Abetone mountain range. Upon arrival, you will find a welcoming Rifugio, ideal for relaxing in the sun, enjoying a good meal in the restaurant and admiring spectacular views of the entire area.
Numerous slopes of varying difficulty start out from the Selletta. Among them, the blue Chierroni run will take you directly back to the starting point. Alternatively, you can take the blue Selletta run or try your hand at the two red runs of Riva and Foresto. The Abetone-Selletta and Villa Imperatori-Selletta chairlifts allow you to comfortably return to the top for new descents.
Again from the summit of the Selletta, you can access the small blue Monte Gomito 1 run that leads to the Capannino del Monte Gomito, a picturesque mountain hut along the eastern ridge of the mountain. Other trails start from here too, namely the blue Monte Gomito 2 run and the red Pista Stucchi run.
This section of the ski area offers breathtaking scenery, ideal for satisfying all levels of skiers.
Starting from Pistoia, you can begin your journey of discovery of the Pistoia Mountains with an initial stop in Maresca, a small and ancient village located along the river of the same name in the municipality of San Marcello Piteglio. This location—ideal for those seeking relaxation and tranquility—offers pleasant walks thanks to its proximity to the Teso Forest, a centuries-old woods that is perfect for trekking, with routes suitable for everyone and especially for families.
A short distance from Maresca, past the village of Gavinana, is the Pian dei Termini Astronomical Observatory, a must-see for science and astronomy enthusiasts, from where it is possible to view the solar system. Thanks to the work of the Gruppo Astrofili Montagna Pistoiese (Pistoia Mountain Astronomers Group), the observatory hosts annual meetings and tours dedicated to popularizing the mysteries of the cosmos and stars, providing a fascinating and educational experience for young and old.
After the visit, return to the SP66 provincial road heading towards Abetone to reach Le Regine, the first ski area of Abetone, to hit the slopes. A chairlift—Seggiovia Le Regine—will take you up to the summit of the Selletta, located at the beginning of the Abetone mountain range. Upon arrival, you will find a welcoming Rifugio, ideal for relaxing in the sun, enjoying a good meal in the restaurant and admiring spectacular views of the entire area.
Numerous slopes of varying difficulty start out from the Selletta. Among them, the blue Chierroni run will take you directly back to the starting point. Alternatively, you can take the blue Selletta run or try your hand at the two red runs of Riva and Foresto. The Abetone-Selletta and Villa Imperatori-Selletta chairlifts allow you to comfortably return to the top for new descents.
Again from the summit of the Selletta, you can access the small blue Monte Gomito 1 run that leads to the Capannino del Monte Gomito, a picturesque mountain hut along the eastern ridge of the mountain. Other trails start from here too, namely the blue Monte Gomito 2 run and the red Pista Stucchi run.
This section of the ski area offers breathtaking scenery, ideal for satisfying all levels of skiers.
Devote the morning to skiing, this time on the western slope of Monte Gomito, particularly on its central peak, where the Rifugio del Monte Gomito is located at 6207 feet (1892 meters) above sea level. You can conveniently park near the Casa Cantoniera-Monte Gomito Gondola Lift and reach the summit by cable car. Here, you will have the opportunity to ski down the famous slopes dedicated to the great Italian champion of the 1950s, Zeno Colò.
From Monte Gomito, via the Zeno 3-Pulicchio Junction, you can move on to Monte Pulicchio and choose your own adventure on slopes of various difficulty: the blue Seghi run named after Italian ski champion Celina Seghi, the red Pulicchio run, the blue Coppi 1 run or the red Coppi 2 run. At the base of the slopes, you will find the Seggiovia Pulicchio, the chairlift that returns back to the summit.
Once you’re done skiing, take time to visit the town of Abetone. You can enjoy striking views from the central piazza then visit the Ski Museum, for a full immersion into the world of winter sports, retracing the successes of great Abetone champions such as Zeno Colò or Celina Seghi. You are sure to find an afternoon of relaxation in one of the spas, including hot baths, massages and saunas or perhaps tasting local products with an emphasis on berries. Indeed, the marmalades, juices and compotes from the blueberries, raspberries and strawberries harvested in the summer are a must!
Devote the morning to skiing, this time on the western slope of Monte Gomito, particularly on its central peak, where the Rifugio del Monte Gomito is located at 6207 feet (1892 meters) above sea level. You can conveniently park near the Casa Cantoniera-Monte Gomito Gondola Lift and reach the summit by cable car. Here, you will have the opportunity to ski down the famous slopes dedicated to the great Italian champion of the 1950s, Zeno Colò.
From Monte Gomito, via the Zeno 3-Pulicchio Junction, you can move on to Monte Pulicchio and choose your own adventure on slopes of various difficulty: the blue Seghi run named after Italian ski champion Celina Seghi, the red Pulicchio run, the blue Coppi 1 run or the red Coppi 2 run. At the base of the slopes, you will find the Seggiovia Pulicchio, the chairlift that returns back to the summit.
Once you’re done skiing, take time to visit the town of Abetone. You can enjoy striking views from the central piazza then visit the Ski Museum, for a full immersion into the world of winter sports, retracing the successes of great Abetone champions such as Zeno Colò or Celina Seghi. You are sure to find an afternoon of relaxation in one of the spas, including hot baths, massages and saunas or perhaps tasting local products with an emphasis on berries. Indeed, the marmalades, juices and compotes from the blueberries, raspberries and strawberries harvested in the summer are a must!
The third day on the snow in Abetone will be dedicated to exploring Val di Luce, the true jewel of this ski area. This valley is home to some of the highest peaks in the entire mountain range, such as Alpe Tre Potenze, and offers breathtaking vistas of the entire Tuscan-Emilian Apennines.
Once known as the Valle delle Pozze—Valley of the Pools—today this area boasts numerous lakes and ponds, formed by melting snow. Among the area’s most famous lakes, known for their beauty and uniqueness, are the Lago Nero (Black Lake) and Lago Piatto (Flat Lake), ideal destinations for those wishing to admire the natural charm of this pristine valley.
Park near the cable car lift to head off on an exploration of the eastern slope of Monte Gomito by descending down the red Celina Seghi run to the Val di Luce ski area. Here you will find welcoming huts located along the Hannibal pass trail and at the central station, the arrival point for all the slopes of this valley.
Taking the Tre Potenze chairlift, you can reach the highest slope in the ski area, from which you can descend down the blue Tre Potenze run or the red Roccione run. To try out one of Abetone’s most famous slopes, simply take the chairlift up to Hannibal Pass and ski the blue Passo d’Annibale or red Otto run.
The Val di Luce ski area even offers dedicated school camps for beginners and toddlers, such as those on the Sprella, Jolly and Abetina slopes, ideal for those still getting their ski legs!
Concluding the exhilarating morning, drive along the SP66 provincial road towards San Marcello. With a short detour, you will reach the charming medieval village of Cutigliano, a must-see tourist destination bearing the Touring Club Bandiera Arancione (Orange Flag). Characterized by narrow picturesque streets, the town has ancient origins dating back to the early Middle Ages, when it unfurled along the important route linking the Emilia and Tuscany regions.
On the walk, don’t skip the Palazzo dei Capitani, a symbol of secular power and an example of Florentine Renaissance architecture. Also worth visiting is the 15ᵗʰ-century Church of the Madonna di Piazza, which safeguards a precious glazed terracotta dossal signed by the Della Robbia School.
The third day on the snow in Abetone will be dedicated to exploring Val di Luce, the true jewel of this ski area. This valley is home to some of the highest peaks in the entire mountain range, such as Alpe Tre Potenze, and offers breathtaking vistas of the entire Tuscan-Emilian Apennines.
Once known as the Valle delle Pozze—Valley of the Pools—today this area boasts numerous lakes and ponds, formed by melting snow. Among the area’s most famous lakes, known for their beauty and uniqueness, are the Lago Nero (Black Lake) and Lago Piatto (Flat Lake), ideal destinations for those wishing to admire the natural charm of this pristine valley.
Park near the cable car lift to head off on an exploration of the eastern slope of Monte Gomito by descending down the red Celina Seghi run to the Val di Luce ski area. Here you will find welcoming huts located along the Hannibal pass trail and at the central station, the arrival point for all the slopes of this valley.
Taking the Tre Potenze chairlift, you can reach the highest slope in the ski area, from which you can descend down the blue Tre Potenze run or the red Roccione run. To try out one of Abetone’s most famous slopes, simply take the chairlift up to Hannibal Pass and ski the blue Passo d’Annibale or red Otto run.
The Val di Luce ski area even offers dedicated school camps for beginners and toddlers, such as those on the Sprella, Jolly and Abetina slopes, ideal for those still getting their ski legs!
Concluding the exhilarating morning, drive along the SP66 provincial road towards San Marcello. With a short detour, you will reach the charming medieval village of Cutigliano, a must-see tourist destination bearing the Touring Club Bandiera Arancione (Orange Flag). Characterized by narrow picturesque streets, the town has ancient origins dating back to the early Middle Ages, when it unfurled along the important route linking the Emilia and Tuscany regions.
On the walk, don’t skip the Palazzo dei Capitani, a symbol of secular power and an example of Florentine Renaissance architecture. Also worth visiting is the 15ᵗʰ-century Church of the Madonna di Piazza, which safeguards a precious glazed terracotta dossal signed by the Della Robbia School.
From Cutigliano, take the cable car up to the Doganaccia ski area in just a few minutes. Immersed in a picturesque mountain atmosphere, you will find facilities to spend the night, two restaurants to enjoy the mountain cuisine and an equipment rental point offering various types of skis, snowshoes and more.
The Doganaccia ski area offers 9.3 miles (15 kilometers) of downhill slopes, dedicated ski mountaineering trails and cross-country ski trails. It is equally renowned for having the most extensive trail lighting system in the Central Apennines, with ten routes served by a modern illumination system. Slopes One, Two and Three are equipped with a three-seater chairlift, whereas the school field has a convenient undercover magic carpets.
Not to be missed is the walk from Doganaccia to Lake Scaffaiolo, an evocative high-altitude basin that transforms into a smooth sheet of ice during the winter. The route, taking about an hour and a half, becomes even more fascinating when glimmering with snow, ideal for an easy and enchanting snowshoe hike.
At lunch, treat yourself to a journey into the authentic flavors of Pistoia Mountain tradition. Between Cutigliano, Melo and Doganaccia, you will find farmhouses and restaurants where you can savor typical winter dishes made with mushrooms and chestnut flour.
On the way back to the city, as you descend in the direction of Pistoia, take the opportunity to visit other charming villages in the Pistoia Mountains or stop in at some of its hidden gems. For example, in Mammiano, not far from San Marcello Pistoiese, you can admire one of the area’s most curious attractions, the Ferriere Suspension Bridge. Built for workers to cross from Popiglio on their way to the historical metallurgical company, the Società Metallurgica di Mammiano Basso, the bridge connects the two banks of the Lima stream. At 745 feet (227 meters) in length, it has held its title of longest pedestrian suspension bridge in the world for many years.
Another interesting stop is the village of San Marcello Pistoiese, with its steep, quaint streets and historic Propositura (Parish Office). The town is also known for its September 8 festival, dedicated to Patron Saint Celestina, when events, initiatives and the traditional hot air balloon launch are organized.
From Cutigliano, take the cable car up to the Doganaccia ski area in just a few minutes. Immersed in a picturesque mountain atmosphere, you will find facilities to spend the night, two restaurants to enjoy the mountain cuisine and an equipment rental point offering various types of skis, snowshoes and more.
The Doganaccia ski area offers 9.3 miles (15 kilometers) of downhill slopes, dedicated ski mountaineering trails and cross-country ski trails. It is equally renowned for having the most extensive trail lighting system in the Central Apennines, with ten routes served by a modern illumination system. Slopes One, Two and Three are equipped with a three-seater chairlift, whereas the school field has a convenient undercover magic carpets.
Not to be missed is the walk from Doganaccia to Lake Scaffaiolo, an evocative high-altitude basin that transforms into a smooth sheet of ice during the winter. The route, taking about an hour and a half, becomes even more fascinating when glimmering with snow, ideal for an easy and enchanting snowshoe hike.
At lunch, treat yourself to a journey into the authentic flavors of Pistoia Mountain tradition. Between Cutigliano, Melo and Doganaccia, you will find farmhouses and restaurants where you can savor typical winter dishes made with mushrooms and chestnut flour.
On the way back to the city, as you descend in the direction of Pistoia, take the opportunity to visit other charming villages in the Pistoia Mountains or stop in at some of its hidden gems. For example, in Mammiano, not far from San Marcello Pistoiese, you can admire one of the area’s most curious attractions, the Ferriere Suspension Bridge. Built for workers to cross from Popiglio on their way to the historical metallurgical company, the Società Metallurgica di Mammiano Basso, the bridge connects the two banks of the Lima stream. At 745 feet (227 meters) in length, it has held its title of longest pedestrian suspension bridge in the world for many years.
Another interesting stop is the village of San Marcello Pistoiese, with its steep, quaint streets and historic Propositura (Parish Office). The town is also known for its September 8 festival, dedicated to Patron Saint Celestina, when events, initiatives and the traditional hot air balloon launch are organized.