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From Siena to Murlo, a journey through history and wellness

An itinerary in search of the ancient Etruscans, passing through Rapolano Terme and Asciano

The proposed itinerary crosses a unique territory that's also known as the Crete Senesi. The route starts from Siena and progresses south of the main town. The greyish clays give spectacular shapes and colors to the rugged landscape, where bare rounded hills follow one another as far as the eye can see, dotted here and there by sparse groves on the tops of the hills that hide historic churches and abbeys, beautiful rural houses and centuries-old villages. The history of settlement in Crete documents the presence of Etruscan communities that are evidenced in the necropolis and the magnificent residences.

1.

The origins of Siena are lost after the Etruscan era. Legend has it that it was founded by Senio, son of Remo (brother of Romulus, king of Rome).

In terms of the Etruscan settlement, evidence of which can be seen in the Archaeological Museum, a Roman military colony was created at the time of Augustus, Saena Iulia, that in the following centuries developed thanks to its position, on the Cassia consular road, the Francigena.

The Archaeological Museum of Siena is located in the wonderful Santa Maria della Scala Museum Complex, set in charming rooms dug into the tuff and once used as warehouses of the former 14th-century hospital. In the museum, you can admire Attic vases, buccheri, alabaster urns, marble sarcophagi, funerary steles, ancient coins, metalwork and everyday objects.

The origins of Siena are lost after the Etruscan era. Legend has it that it was founded by Senio, son of Remo (brother of Romulus, king of Rome).

In terms of the Etruscan settlement, evidence of which can be seen in the Archaeological Museum, a Roman military colony was created at the time of Augustus, Saena Iulia, that in the following centuries developed thanks to its position, on the Cassia consular road, the Francigena.

The Archaeological Museum of Siena is located in the wonderful Santa Maria della Scala Museum Complex, set in charming rooms dug into the tuff and once used as warehouses of the former 14th-century hospital. In the museum, you can admire Attic vases, buccheri, alabaster urns, marble sarcophagi, funerary steles, ancient coins, metalwork and everyday objects.

2.

The town of Rapolano Terme is famous for its thermal waters which, after the Etruscans, were continued by the Romans, up to the present day. In the Rapolano area the waters emerge from the subsoil at a temperature of 8 to 40°C; these are sulphurous-bicarbonate-calcium waters with substantial quantities of calcium, magnesium, sodium and potassium, that give it remarkable health properties. There are two thermal complexes present: Terme Antica Querciolaia and Terme San Giovanni.

Sites that are worthy of note include the remains of the Etruscan-Roman Thermal Complex in Campo Muri, frequented since the third century BC, finds from which are now on display at the Palazzo Corboli Museum in Asciano.

Another fundamental resource of the territory is the travertine of Rapolano. Since ancient times, this local stone has been used as a building material (and not only). The Etruscans seem to be the first population of the area who based part of their economy on exploiting this important local stone. Over the centuries, Rapolano travertine has been used in many palaces and buildings in the Sienese area. Mangia Tower in Piazza del Campo in Siena is one such example.

Rapolano Terme is an interesting village to visit and we suggest a visit to the Museum of rural civilization housed in the Grancia di Serre.

The town of Rapolano Terme is famous for its thermal waters which, after the Etruscans, were continued by the Romans, up to the present day. In the Rapolano area the waters emerge from the subsoil at a temperature of 8 to 40°C; these are sulphurous-bicarbonate-calcium waters with substantial quantities of calcium, magnesium, sodium and potassium, that give it remarkable health properties. There are two thermal complexes present: Terme Antica Querciolaia and Terme San Giovanni.

Sites that are worthy of note include the remains of the Etruscan-Roman Thermal Complex in Campo Muri, frequented since the third century BC, finds from which are now on display at the Palazzo Corboli Museum in Asciano.

Another fundamental resource of the territory is the travertine of Rapolano. Since ancient times, this local stone has been used as a building material (and not only). The Etruscans seem to be the first population of the area who based part of their economy on exploiting this important local stone. Over the centuries, Rapolano travertine has been used in many palaces and buildings in the Sienese area. Mangia Tower in Piazza del Campo in Siena is one such example.

Rapolano Terme is an interesting village to visit and we suggest a visit to the Museum of rural civilization housed in the Grancia di Serre.

3.

The territory of Asciano was inhabited by important Etruscan families including the Hepni and Marcni, owners of the imposing necropolis of Poggio Pinci and the Tumulo del Molinello, located a few kilometers from the current village of Asciano. The numerous funerary objects now preserved in the Palazzo Corboli Museum are evidence of their wealth.

In the heart of the town you can also find another treasure: a highly prized polychrome mosaic, the surviving trace of a lavish late antique building (4th century AD), built to control the confluence of the three major waterways that characterize the area.

Walking through the streets of the center today, you can recognize valuable traces of the medieval era, such as the scenic Piazza del Grano, with its 15th-century fountain and the Palazzo del Podestà, as well as the interesting churches and chapels located in various points inside and outside the historic walls.

The territory of Asciano was inhabited by important Etruscan families including the Hepni and Marcni, owners of the imposing necropolis of Poggio Pinci and the Tumulo del Molinello, located a few kilometers from the current village of Asciano. The numerous funerary objects now preserved in the Palazzo Corboli Museum are evidence of their wealth.

In the heart of the town you can also find another treasure: a highly prized polychrome mosaic, the surviving trace of a lavish late antique building (4th century AD), built to control the confluence of the three major waterways that characterize the area.

Walking through the streets of the center today, you can recognize valuable traces of the medieval era, such as the scenic Piazza del Grano, with its 15th-century fountain and the Palazzo del Podestà, as well as the interesting churches and chapels located in various points inside and outside the historic walls.

4.

Immersed in a forest of cypresses, pines, oaks and olive trees, the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore dominates the landscape of the Crete Senesi and is one of the most important religious monuments in Tuscany, both for the historical territorial importance it has always had and for the masterpieces of art that it holds.

The Abbey was founded in 1319 when the Sienese nobles Bernardo Tolomei, Patrizio Patrizi and Ambrogio Piccolomini retired to an isolated place to live according to the rules of St. Benedict.
True gems of Italian Renaissance painting are preserved inside, with works by Luca Signorelli and Giovanni Antonio Bazzi, known as Sodomia. The monastic library gathers over 40,000 volumes, parchments and incunabula. At the end of the room, a flight of stairs leads to the pharmacy containing an important collection of 17th century vases that contained the herbs from which cordials and digestives are still obtained today.

Immersed in a forest of cypresses, pines, oaks and olive trees, the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore dominates the landscape of the Crete Senesi and is one of the most important religious monuments in Tuscany, both for the historical territorial importance it has always had and for the masterpieces of art that it holds.

The Abbey was founded in 1319 when the Sienese nobles Bernardo Tolomei, Patrizio Patrizi and Ambrogio Piccolomini retired to an isolated place to live according to the rules of St. Benedict.
True gems of Italian Renaissance painting are preserved inside, with works by Luca Signorelli and Giovanni Antonio Bazzi, known as Sodomia. The monastic library gathers over 40,000 volumes, parchments and incunabula. At the end of the room, a flight of stairs leads to the pharmacy containing an important collection of 17th century vases that contained the herbs from which cordials and digestives are still obtained today.

5.

The entirely hilly territory of Murlo is situated between the Merse valley and the Arbia valley.

The Poggio delle Civitate must have been a lively and popular place even before the time of the Etruscans. This place that's particularly rich in minerals and with fertile soil, was chosen as a settlement, and is a very rare example of an "ancient factory", characterized by a large number of different productions.

More recent times have also left indelible traces in the history and territory of Murlo. One of the most important in its history is linked to the mines, created towards the end of the 9th century following the discovery of coal deposits in the locality of Pratacci. A village was formed, equipped with various furnaces. The productive settlement had a long life, and had a profound impact on the local economy, up until its end.

The archaeological museum is set up inside the histoic Bishop's Palace and the adjoining building. Here, numerous archaeological finds from the municipal area are kept. Highlights include grave treasures from the necropolis of Poggio Aguzzo (7th century BC), the materials found in the Etruscan site of Poggio Civitate, one of the most important discoveries regarding the population of Northern Etruria.

The excavations of Poggio Civitate, in fact, have brought to light the extraordinary remains of a stately residence, which testifies to two different construction phases (orientalizing and archaic), dating back to the 7th-6th century BC.

The entirely hilly territory of Murlo is situated between the Merse valley and the Arbia valley.

The Poggio delle Civitate must have been a lively and popular place even before the time of the Etruscans. This place that's particularly rich in minerals and with fertile soil, was chosen as a settlement, and is a very rare example of an "ancient factory", characterized by a large number of different productions.

More recent times have also left indelible traces in the history and territory of Murlo. One of the most important in its history is linked to the mines, created towards the end of the 9th century following the discovery of coal deposits in the locality of Pratacci. A village was formed, equipped with various furnaces. The productive settlement had a long life, and had a profound impact on the local economy, up until its end.

The archaeological museum is set up inside the histoic Bishop's Palace and the adjoining building. Here, numerous archaeological finds from the municipal area are kept. Highlights include grave treasures from the necropolis of Poggio Aguzzo (7th century BC), the materials found in the Etruscan site of Poggio Civitate, one of the most important discoveries regarding the population of Northern Etruria.

The excavations of Poggio Civitate, in fact, have brought to light the extraordinary remains of a stately residence, which testifies to two different construction phases (orientalizing and archaic), dating back to the 7th-6th century BC.

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