One week in Val di Chiana and Maremma

Our trip departs from Arezzo, the hilltop town with its own share of archeological artefacts and history. But our destination for the day is the heart of Val di Chiana, so let’s head to Castiglion Fiorentino. Though medieval, this town vaunts Etruscan-Roman roots, which you can explore in-depth at the Archaeological Museum and the underground path. The museum conserves artefacts that were uncovered around the Cassero, the ancient fortress that dominates the town. Some pieces even date all the way back to the 5th century BCE! Make sure to check out the extraordinary reconstruction of the roof of an Etruscan sanctuary found in the Cassero area and the artefacts from the Etruscan site of Brolio Melmone.
The underground path in the museum contains the ruins of a protohistoric village (7th to 8th century BCE), an Etruscan home and an Etruscan sanctuary.

Next, let’s spend the rest of the day in Cortona. Cortona is a truly stunning town and was once an important centre of Etruscan civilization. Indeed, two kilometres of Etruscan-era walls are still standing today. That’s nearly 1,500 years of history at your fingertips! A great place to visit is the Etruscan Academy Museum, housed inside Palazzo Casali. The upper floors of the museum conserve masterpieces like the Etruscan Lamp and a golden buckle in the shape of a crouched panther, while the lower floors house exhibition spaces, where visitors are guided through the history of Etruscan settlements. The museum’s crown jewel? The Tabula Cortonensis, the third longest Etruscan text in the world.

Spend the rest of the day exploring the archeological area around Cortona, which comprises the Sodo and Camucia complexes. Sodo is divided into two “Melone,” the first one comprising a series of chambers and the second one containing two tombs. The complex sits opposite an altar that was used for funerary purposes. Nearby, Camucia comprises two tombs.

Our itinerary continues to the Siena side of Val di Chiana. We’re headed to Chiusi, one of the first and most important Etruscan cities. Every inch of this city is dripping with ancient history, from the Labyrinth of Porsenna to the Underground Museum to the artefacts filling the local archeology museum. Let’s start with the Labyrinth, a truly unique place. Pliny the Elder spoke about a legendary Etruscan king named Porsenna who was buried in a magnificent tomb inside an intricate labyrinth. Many believed that these tunnels were this tomb, but in reality, they’re Etruscan aqueducts.

The Underground Museum will also take you into the depths of the earth to learn about the Etruscans. We won’t dwell too much on this museum, but trust us: if you want to learn about this mysterious civilization this is the place to go. Kids will love exploring all the objects at the Archeology Museum, which conserves artefacts from Prehistory to the Middle Ages.

Our third day is dedicated to Chianciano Terme. This town is nestled amongst hills dotted with oak and chestnut trees, making it ideal for a day of walking with the family. Indeed, just six kilometres outside the town is the Pietraporciana Nature Reserve, a green oasis where you and the family can spend hours taking in Tuscany’s typical nature. The beechwood was inhabited even in ancient times, as evidenced by the many archeological finds in the forest. The Visitors’ Centre offers guided hikes and workshop that will teach you about just what makes this territory unique.

Now let’s head back to Chianciano for a light afternoon at the archeology museum, famous for its collection of Etruscan canopies (jars shaped like humans). The artefacts were uncovered in the surrounding area and are, interestingly, arranged thematically: the world of the dead, sanctuaries, homes, and the thermal baths in Roman times. Other objects on display include bronze dishes, ceramics and terracotta pieces.

Our itinerary now moves into northern Maremma, a truly spectacular corner of Tuscany. Make your way to Follonica, on the coast. You can spend the day on the beach or you can visit the thrilling Acqua Village. Home to 18-metre-high slides, surfing, waterfalls, water games and Moku, the children’s island, this is sure to be a hit with the kids. For some museum fun, check out the Museum of Cast Iron Arts of the Maremma, which traces the history ironworking industry, from the Etruscans to today.

Archeology lovers will love our itinerary for today! Our first stop is Vetulonia. Like Chiusi, this was one of the 12 most important Etruscan cities, and its discovery confirmed just how wealthy the settlement was. The necropolis here is one of the civilization’s largest and most famous, extending down both the eastern and western slopes of the hills. There are other tombs, like the Belvedere, Fibula d’Oro, Diavolino and many more. If you want to see the artefacts discovered at the site, head to the archeological museum, named after the archeologist who uncovered the settlement, Isidoro Falchi.

Let’s move on to Grosseto, the capital of southern Maremma. This city is one of the lesser visited Tuscan destinations, but it holds a wealth of sites to see. Only 20 minutes to both the seaside and the Maremma Regional Park, the city is the perfect base for a day on the beach, a walk through wildlife or a stroll through Renaissance wonders. In the historic centre, you can take a walk around the city walls, a 16th-century defense structure turned into a tree-lined walking path, visit the 14th-century Cathedral of San Lorenzo and its artistic treasures or visit the Archeology Museum, which covers the history of Maremma, from Prehistory to the Etruscans and Romans, through to the Middle Ages and today. A fun note: the museum offers the “Larth Game”, with the whole ground floor of the museum transformed into a giant boardgame and children have to answer riddles and questions in order to progress.

We’ve come to the last day of our week away, but there’s still a lot to see! So let’s head deeper into southern Maremma to visit Pitigliano, also known as “Little Jerusalem” for its once flourishing Jewish community. Though decidedly medieval in appearance, the history of Pitigliano extends back to Prehistory. Make sure to visit the synagogue, Jewish cemetery, oven where they baked unleavened bread and the cellar used to produce kosher wine for a dive into the town’s unique religious history. And for a real treat, take a fun family outing traversing the Vie Cave on horseback.

We’ll end our trip exploring Sorano and the Vie Cave, the Etruscan centre par excellence. Stroll around this town built into the cliffside before dipping out the “bottom” of the town to immerse yourselves in the captivating greenery of the Città del Tufo Archeological Park, linking Sorano to the wider area by the network of mysterious Vie Cave, paths dug into the tuff rock by the Etruscans and whose original purpose is still unknown. Along the way, you can explore Etruscan tombs and artefacts as you step back in time.