Via Lauretana in Tuscany

From Siena you come to the hamlet of Arbia, where you take the provincial Lauretana (SP 438) and embark upon a first stretch of dirt track. In this stage, the Via Lauretana climbs to the peak of the biancane around Leonina, and then sticks to the crest on a clay, almost lunar-looking path. Pay attention: the clay underfoot in the rainy season is truly an experience that is not forgotten easily!

Keeping to the route, you arrive at a permanent stone installation by Jean Paul Philippe, a “Transitory Site” where passers-by can find a seat and a window angled to catch the last ray of sun on the summer solstice.

The route continues to Mucigliani, along a path that offers a 360-degree view of the Sienese countryside, right up to the start of the provincial road. Walk with care, heeding the signs that often instruct you to walk on the side of the asphalt road, and continue to the little settlement of Vescona, that was once an important castle.

More experienced walkers can continue and stop in Asciano, extending the first part of the route.

Leaving Vescona, follow the dirt road along which the famous bicycle races also passes, the L’Eroica and Strade Bianche (White Roads). Shortly after, we arrive at Monte Sante Marie, an important and strategic site for the control of the territory. Continuing on, you enter the village of Asciano, whose main road, Corso Matteotti as well as some side streets, still feature examples of devotional plaques, dedicated to the Madonna, functioning almost as signposts for pilgrims. Once out of the historic center, you arrive at the Parish church of Sant’Ippolito (the oldest church in the town of Asciano), which is private but can be visited by appointment. The route proceeds along field edges, eventually winding up in the hilltown of Serre di Rapolano.

The Lauretana leaves Serre di Rapolano to reach the castle and estate of San Gimignanello, where you can stop for a visit and a bite to eat (booking necessary). The route then takes an old right of way easement among fields and woods, before emerging on an asphalt road that bears the Via Lauretana name: walk it for around 2.5 km (be aware that the asphalt road is often flanked by little pedestrian paths, to help you avoid the traffic). The route takes you through the old village of Scrofiano and into the main square of Sinalunga.

From the main square of Sinalunga, we head down to the historic Fonte del Castagno. We leave the asphalt for a country road that will take us to the Siena-Bettolle provincial road and from there, to the junction with the Siena-Perugia provincial road. We follow the country road for 300 meters in the direction of the historic Fratta estate, formed on what was once one of the most important roads of ancient Rome: the Cassia consular road. We continue the journey and take a stop in Torrita di Siena: a beautiful fortified village with walls that constituted a defensive bulwark for the Republic of Siena.

Leaving the village behind, the signs of the Via Lauretana take us towards the town of Abbadia and from there to the Montepulciano Scalo station. Once we reach Callone, we follow the cycle and pedestrian path of the Bonifica Route towards the north with our gaze turned towards our final stage. The village of Valiano was an old feudal castle which for centuries ensured safe passage for pilgrims who were heading towards Loreto.

Once out of Valiano, take the asphalt road which gives way to gravel again after about 600m. Here, the Tuscan Lauretana jumps into Umbria for a brief stretch, but the landscape remains arable fields and vineyards until the overpass over the entry onto the Siena-Bettolle motorway. After the overpass, we continue towards Ossaia and then Montalla. The Via Lauretana then rises towards Cortona, frequently opening up to magnificent views over the Valdichiana, and arrives at Piazza Garibaldi, the entrance to the city’s historic centre.