From the nymphs to Bacchus and Prometheus
It is a baptism of water, wine and fire, the journey that begins at the spas of Chianciano, touches the vineyards of Montepulciano and finishes at the terracotta furnaces of Petroio, passing through Montefollonico on the way. We are in the heart of the Sienese Valdichiana, in a landscape sculpted by sharecropping, and therefore more cultivated than primal. Signs of it are plentiful in an area that adheres to a centuries-old way of doing things, with its villas, palazzi, churches and antiquarian flair for Etruscan memories. The paths that criss-cross the territory vary from broad, easy tracks to the most primitive ruts.
The first day dawns over the luxurious baths of Chianciano, whose wellness centre is inspired by the elements of fire, air and water. This is a good place to start, by testing the elements, temperatures, environments and different ambiences. The health itinerary begins in the Theia thermal pools, which is fed by the Sillene hot spring, whose water comes out at a surface temperature somewhere between 33°C and 36°C. It is also full of carbon dioxide, calcium carbonate, bicarbonate and sulphites, which lend it its typical opacity and, more importantly, have anti-inflammatory effects on the skeleton, muscles and skin.
After rejuvenating at Chianciano Terme, we move to Montepulciano in the afternoon, passing by the white travertine of San Biagio: this is the temple in the shape of a Greek cross by Antonio da Sangallo il Vecchio, and it is one of the tallest monuments of the Italian Renaissance. From San Biagio you can walk to the historic centre of Montepulciano (those less in shape can take the bus, which passes every 30 minutes) and visit the town's old wine cellars, which are guarded by imposing Renaissance constructions. Or you can take a trip out to the surrounding countryside and wander among the endless vines; some of the wineries are masterpieces of technology and design. This is the old kingdom of a nobler Bacchus.
The first day dawns over the luxurious baths of Chianciano, whose wellness centre is inspired by the elements of fire, air and water. This is a good place to start, by testing the elements, temperatures, environments and different ambiences. The health itinerary begins in the Theia thermal pools, which is fed by the Sillene hot spring, whose water comes out at a surface temperature somewhere between 33°C and 36°C. It is also full of carbon dioxide, calcium carbonate, bicarbonate and sulphites, which lend it its typical opacity and, more importantly, have anti-inflammatory effects on the skeleton, muscles and skin.
After rejuvenating at Chianciano Terme, we move to Montepulciano in the afternoon, passing by the white travertine of San Biagio: this is the temple in the shape of a Greek cross by Antonio da Sangallo il Vecchio, and it is one of the tallest monuments of the Italian Renaissance. From San Biagio you can walk to the historic centre of Montepulciano (those less in shape can take the bus, which passes every 30 minutes) and visit the town's old wine cellars, which are guarded by imposing Renaissance constructions. Or you can take a trip out to the surrounding countryside and wander among the endless vines; some of the wineries are masterpieces of technology and design. This is the old kingdom of a nobler Bacchus.
The journey resumes the following morning in Montefollonico, a gem of a hilltown in the municipality of Torrita di Siena. Note the gate of San Salvatore with its two-tailed mermaid, an ancient fertility symbol that was curiously picked up by Starbucks; the watchtowers, the little piazza, and the houses of the nobility, among alleys and orchards. The town was originally called Monte a Follonica, because the Roman word for fabric-workers was fullones, applied especially to those who occupied themselves with fulling, which was usually produced in watermills. Here, the mill was located next to the now-ruined Benedictine abbey, not for nothing called Sancta Maria de Folonico. This little town, which lay on the edge of Sienese dominion and which really grew between the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, has a strong connection to water but also to wine: vinsanto, to be precise, a local product that is symbolic of hospitality.
Our route continues to Petroio, the last leg on our tour of the Sienese Valdichiana. Petroio is the homeland of Sienese terracotta, and has a museum dedicated to the history of this craft, in the municipality of Trequanda. "We were all potters once," say the elderly residents of this tiny town. The centuries-old tradition survives in a number of terracotta enterprises, some industrial, some artisan, but most of them lie outside Petroio. But if you go into the main squares, you will see evidence of the tradition stacked on pallets: orci (old oil containers) and lemon bowls, vases and garden accoutrements. Old forms and new, all handmade, either by a professional or an amateur. Anyone here, it seems, is able to fashion a bowl or jug, with the technique known as picio, which gives a nice pasta analogy.
The journey resumes the following morning in Montefollonico, a gem of a hilltown in the municipality of Torrita di Siena. Note the gate of San Salvatore with its two-tailed mermaid, an ancient fertility symbol that was curiously picked up by Starbucks; the watchtowers, the little piazza, and the houses of the nobility, among alleys and orchards. The town was originally called Monte a Follonica, because the Roman word for fabric-workers was fullones, applied especially to those who occupied themselves with fulling, which was usually produced in watermills. Here, the mill was located next to the now-ruined Benedictine abbey, not for nothing called Sancta Maria de Folonico. This little town, which lay on the edge of Sienese dominion and which really grew between the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, has a strong connection to water but also to wine: vinsanto, to be precise, a local product that is symbolic of hospitality.
Our route continues to Petroio, the last leg on our tour of the Sienese Valdichiana. Petroio is the homeland of Sienese terracotta, and has a museum dedicated to the history of this craft, in the municipality of Trequanda. "We were all potters once," say the elderly residents of this tiny town. The centuries-old tradition survives in a number of terracotta enterprises, some industrial, some artisan, but most of them lie outside Petroio. But if you go into the main squares, you will see evidence of the tradition stacked on pallets: orci (old oil containers) and lemon bowls, vases and garden accoutrements. Old forms and new, all handmade, either by a professional or an amateur. Anyone here, it seems, is able to fashion a bowl or jug, with the technique known as picio, which gives a nice pasta analogy.