Via Francigena in Tuscany

The 22nd stage of the Francigena is the first in Tuscany. It marks the crossing of the Apennine ridge, not far from the current Cisa Pass, and the descent into the valley of the Magra river. The peaceful landscape features rich forests surrounded by castles, Romanesque churches and charming villages that lead to Pontremoli, with its palaces and Medieval churches, including that of San Pietro, where the "labyrinth" is still preserved today, a symbol of pilgrimages to the Holy Land.

Following on from Pontremoli, a series of dirt roads and paths pass through long stretches in the woods. After having seen the elegant parish church of Sorano, the Francigena crosses the historic village of Filattiera. Along the valley of the Monia torrent, we reach Filetto and then Villafranca in Lunigiana, where you can visit the ethnographic museum. After crossing the Bagnone stream, going up to Virgoletta, the path reaches Terrarossa, dominated by the Malaspina castle, continuing up to the abbey of San Caprasio in Aulla, founded in 884.

Passing castles and fortresses along the Lunigiana hills (for example, Fosdinovo), the first part of the section takes place largely on a trail that offers a beautiful view of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Interesting the atmospheres of the ancient villages along the way, the view of the ruins of the Brina Castle and the town of Sarzana.

Leaving Sarzana, along a road among the vineyards that cover the hills, in a succession of panoramas of the Apuan Alps and the sea, the Francigena passes through the historic center of Massa, before going back up to Montignoso where the Aghinolfi castle stands on the hill. In Massa we recommend a visit to the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Francis and to the Diocesan museum.

Go up towards Aghinolfi Castle in Montignoso to take a panoramic road, which must be traveled with caution due to traffic. The section continues as far as Pietrasanta, "the little Athens of Italy", the adoptive homeland of artists from all over the world. Immediately after Pietrasanta and its beautiful Piazza Duomo, we can visit the historic Parish Church of San Giovanni, and continue up and down the hills of Lucca to the historic center of Camaiore and the centuries-old Abbey.

After visiting the historic center of Camaiore and the centuries-old Abbey, go up towards Monte Magno and through the Freddana valley, where you will reach Valpromaro. From here, a path through the woods leads to Piazzano. We then descend into the valley of the Contesola stream and, crossing the Serchio river at Ponte San Pietro, we soon arrive at Lucca, entering from the historic San Donato gate. In the Cathedral of San Martino is kept the Holy Face, destination of veneration of the path that bears his name. In Lucca, is also the Via Francigena Entry Point complex, which offers a series of services designed for slow and religious tourism.

After Lucca, continue in the direction of the Arno river where the Francigena reaches Capannori, with its parish church of San Quirico with its thirteenth-century facade, then arriving at Porcari. From here, with a deviation of 500 meters, you reach Badia di Pozzeveri and then Altopascio, home of the "Spedale" of the Knights of the Tau, a safe refuge for pilgrims.

In the initial part of the route, in Galleno, you walk on the pavement of the ancient Via Francigena. You then pass the wild and deserted hills of the Cerbaie to head towards Ponte a Cappiano and its Medici bridge. From here along the embankment of the Usciana canal you cross an ancient marsh now reclaimed and go back to the historic center of Fucecchio, whose museum preserves splendid works of art. After passing the Arno, you will soon reach San Miniato, the powerful and rich medieval village known in the gastronomic field for the truffle.

A spectacular alternative route of the Via Francigena called the "water variant" departs from Altopascio. It crosses the canals and marshy areas of Padule di Fucecchio, a nature reserve rich in biodiversity and historical evidence, a paradise for birdwatchers, and then rejoins the main route at Ponte a Cappiano. A variant that can be traveled along the banks on foot, by bike, on horseback or aboard barchini (run by local associations), traditional boats that ply the waters of the marsh. Download the route of the Water Variant (kml).

From San Miniato an extraordinarily beautiful trail follows along the hilly ridges of Val d'Elsa, scattered with castles, fortresses, lodges and abbey complexes, reaching the parish church of Coiano with its steep stone staircase, and the parish church of Santa Maria in Chianni, rebuilt in the 12th century. Shortly afterwards, you reach Gambassi Terme which takes its name from its beneficial waters.

Departing from Gambassi Terme there is a short route along the beautiful ridges of Val d'Elsa, scattered with castles, historic parish churches and abbeys, before reaching the Pancole sanctuary, leading back to the village of Collemuccioli with a stretch of medieval pavement, and from here to the parish church of Cellole, then going up towards the hill where the towers of San Gimignano rise. To see: the frescoes of the municipal palace.

From San Gimignano, through dirt roads and up and down paths, we enter the valley of the Foci stream, finding a ford near Molino d'Aiano, one of Sigeric's precisely identified places. Continuing on, one intercepts the splendid fortified village of Colle Val d'Elsa, lapped by the turquoise waters of the Elsa river. Finally we reach the complex of Abbadia a Isola, before seeing Monteriggioni, with its walls and unmistakable crown of towers dominating the hillside.

It is possible to take an alternative route, leaving the main one in the vicinity of Molino d'Aiano. It then continues by intercepting the picturesque Badia a Coneo, passing through the towns of Gracciano and Quartaia, and then rejoining the main route near Le Caldane, where thermal springs known since Roman-Etruscan times flow. Download the track of the alternative route (kml).

From Monteriggioni, we walk along the dirt roads of the Sienese mountainous area towards the medieval village of Cerbaia. After passing the castles of Chiocciola and Villa, following the ups and downs, you reach Siena from Gate Camollia. The city will surprise you with the beauty of its Piazza del Campo, the Duomo and the hospital of Santa Maria della Scala, one of the most important museum centers in Siena.

From Siena there is a challenging route along the dirt roads of the Val d'Arbia where you reach the Grancia di Cuna, a centuries-old fortified farm owned by the hospital of Santa Maria della Scala. Continuing along the offshoots of the Crete Senesi, and passing Monteroni, you reach the fortified village of Lucignano d'Arbia up to Ponte d'Arbia.

From San Quirico d’Orcia, through the bare hills, you come to the little fortified town of Vignoni, with its views of Val d’Orcia, and then descend to Bagno Vignoni, which is famous for its vast thermal pool. It is worth stepping off the beaten track to have a look at the historic center of Castiglione d’Orcia and the tower of the Tentennano Fortress. A long undulating stretch through the valleys of the Orcia and Paglia rivers take you to the old guest house of Le Briccole, and eventually to Radicofani.

It is also possible to take a nice variant route that meets the village of Abbadia San Salvatore. Download the route of the Abbadia San Salvatore variant (kml).

From Radicofani - whose Fortress is admired - descending along the ridge, with a far-reaching view towards the hills, of Val d’Orcia and of Mount Amiata, the Via Francigena comes to Ponte a Rigo, enters Lazio and then along a dirt track with views of the Paglia valley it reaches Proceno up to Acquapendente. 

Visit the official website: ViaFrancigenaToscana.it